Entering the Kingdom of Kim – Visiting North Korea
With the unorthodox diplomacy of the Trump Administration and the unpredictable Kim Jong-Un responding in kind, North Korea is not quite as closed off to the world as it was just a few years ago. However, it continues to retain a certain allure for “dark tourists” seeking out the weird and unusual of visiting North Korea.
In this first post of a series, we will share a first-hand account of visiting North Korea, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK). But first, let’s take a look at how North Korea got to where it is today.
North Korea – Still in the Grip of a Personality Cult
Despite gingerly leaving the door ajar, it would be a stretch to say North Korea is finally opening up to the world. The impoverished country is still in the grip of a one family rule. This has dated back to 1948 when Kim Il-Sung assumed power in elections organised by the Soviet Union. A war hero against the Japanese occupation of the Korean Peninsula, Sung quickly established a personality cult and embraced communism.
North Korea was briefly more prosperous and stable than its southern neighbour. This was due to the supported by the Soviet Union, in the aftermath of the Korean War. However, as the Republic of Korea (South Korea) drew more support from Japan and the United States in the 1960s, the tables began to turn.
Il-Sung remained in power until his death in 1994, when the country was suffering from economic decline and famine. This crisis is known as the Arduous March, and claimed the lives of hundreds of thousands of North Koreans. Even amidst the chaos, the family dynasty continued to thrive under the son, Kim Jong-Il.
Increasing Isolation
As the Soviet Union collapsed, and China not being the force it is today, North Korea became increasingly isolated in the international community. Despite chronic economic mismanagement, Jong-Il retained the cult of personality and grip on power. And the isolation was further confirmed by being included in George W. Bush’s Axis of Evil, after 9/11.
Jong-Il was often portrayed as an erratic and paranoid figure by the Western media and movies.
After several years of poor health, Jong-Il died in December 2011. In 2012, his second son, 27-year-old Kim Jong-Un, was anointed as leader. Initially, it seemed his authority was weakened by his age, apparent lack of experience, and perhaps by perceptions of his personality.
However, he displayed a ruthless streak by executing his powerful uncle, Jang Song-thaek in 2013. Jong Un also consolidated his authority with the military by aggressively pursuing the nuclear weapons programme and missile tests over the Sea of Japan.
While unprecedented talks have been taking place between President Trump and Kim Jong Un, concrete progress remains limited. So how can you enter the land known as the “Hermit Kingdom.”
Journey Into the DPRK
Andy* visited DPRK in 2018, and agreed to share his experiences of visiting North Korea. He began by simply searching for reputable tour operators online – since solo travel is not allowed. “What most people don’t expect how easy it is to arrange a trip to the DPRK,” said Andy.
After searching for a few hours, he settled on Young Pioneer Tours, a specialist tour operator with vast experience of North Korea. Andy simply passed on his details, and “they handled everything to do with the visa process.” Due to diplomatic reasons Americans, South Koreans, and Malaysians will not be able to enter the country. However most nationalities are allowed. Within two months, he was on the plane to Beijing, the first leg of his journey to the DPRK.
Knowing What to Expect
Andy’s briefing in Beijing, with his tour group, had a reassuring message:
“We had an hour or so making sure everyone knew what to expect when we arrived and how to conduct ourselves while we were there. It was all logical stuff, but tour groups need to be especially careful as any incident will reflect badly on their company as well as both their foreign and local guides. It was clear from the beginning that there was no reason to be paranoid in the DPRK.”
Given the fact these tour companies and guides have decades of experience and know-how, those words undoubtedly carry weight.
After the briefing and preparations, it was time to jump aboard the train for a 24-hour journey from Beijing to Pyongyang. Andy recounts the unusual experience at the border crossing in the Chinese city of Dandong:
“Easily the most relaxed customs experience many of us had experienced. Korean officers boarded the train. They were stern-faced, some with beaming smiles (especially when seeing the Japanese cigarette packs being nudged in their direction). They then completed a thorough search of our belongings. This consisted of them flicking randomly through our camera settings (a blue filter was selected on mine), noting our phone manufacturer and then the authors of our books.”
Entering The Countryside
After being waved through at 8am, it was time to relax, take in the images of the North Korean countryside and enjoy a cheeky bottle of soju sold on the train. As expected, the rural scenes were “notably basic” according to Andy.
“Agriculture was the theme and the impact of fuel sanctions was very evident with barely any machinery in view. Every now and then we’d pass through small towns. There were modest housing and schools, murals of the great leaders and party slogans adorning the sides of every government building.”
Eventually, the train pulled into Pyongyang where Andy’s tour group were greeted by a State welcome. Though disappointingly not for them but for the national volleyball team on their way back from a tournament in Beijing.
And on that surreal note, their tour of visiting North Korea had begun.
*For security reasons, Andy had his name changed
